After climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, I spent two days recouping in the town of Moshi, before heading out on a 3-day safari.
If you love the opportunity to interact with locals, Moshi is an exciting destination. Perhaps a little too exciting. In fact, the quantity of attention I received was overwhelming. At times I was approached by so many people trying to sell me things (tours, artwork, tuk tuk, taxi rides), or sometimes just asking for money, that they began to fight over my attention. I couldn’t understand a word of the “kerfuffle”, however I imagined they were all yelling, “Hands off everyone, I saw this Mzungu (Swahili word for a singular white person) first. I got dibs! Go find your own sunburnt tourist!”.
For this reason, Moshi was equal parts exhausting and exhilarating. I stayed at a hostel popular with Mount Kilimanjaro climbers called “Climbers Home”. Here I befriended a local artist named Antonia who offered to be my tour guide, which turned out to be an amazing experience! Walking around with a local protected me from the onslaught of out-of-work guides and tour operators in the street trying to fight for my disposable income. It also allowed me to visit areas of the city I would have never had the opportunity to see, including her small village which was located on the outskirts of town.
One of the most exciting things I did in Moshi was visit with the local Maasai. The Maasai are a tribe of pastoral nomads who have actively resisted change in southeast Africa. Their traditional culture is primarily focused around their cattle. Similar to Hindus the cows are considered sacred and so is the land they graze them on. The Maasai diet consists mainly of raw milk, blood and meat from the herd. The hides are also used for clothing, shelter and construction. Here is what I found the most interesting: Maasai are known for being fierce lion fighters. Maasai boys have to pass through a number of “rites of passage” before earning the title of Moran (newly initiated warrior), who are charged with defending the cattle herds from lions.
When we visited them my new friend and tour guide Antonia told me that I could ask them anything I wanted. My first question was, “Is it true you guys fight lions”? In unison, as if part of a West Side Story dance routine, all five of them reached into their Shuka (traditional robes) and pulled out concealed knives which were approximately 20 inches long. In the US there are certain states which have conceal and carry laws, where citizens can apply for a permit to carry a hidden firearm. In Tanzania the only tribe given this right is the Maasai since the iconic Rungus knife is an integral part of their culture and tradition. As one guy told me in the streets of Moshi, “The Maasai warriors are peaceful people, but no one ever messes with them. Everyone knows they are all carrying a large knife”.
Also, special thanks to my tour guide Antonia, because with her guidance I sampled food I would have never eaten and I took public transport I would have never experienced. She fiercely protected my digestive tract by not allowing me to eat at food vendors that she knew could potentially make me sick. On multiple occasions, she stopped me from eating or drinking things from questionable establishments and she always made sure I was drinking bottled water. When she brought me to her village she showed me her impressive collection of art that she had created. She also brought out her grandmother’s collection of Kitenge clothes and dressed me up. I found the colors beautiful and fascinating and she was proud to show me her cultural heritage.
One of my most memorable and special moments in Moshi was my last evening in town when Antonia brought me to a local joint for dinner and we ran into my Kilimanjaro Tour guide Thomas. I got to spend my last evening in Moshi with two of the most memorable people I’d befriended so far. The two of them both worked incredibly hard to keep me safe and alive in Tanzania. When I introduced the two of them I said a quiet prayer of gratitude wishing that they stay in touch and get married one day.
Tanzania Safari and the BIG 5:
The main goal for many people who go on an African safari are to see the most iconic wildlife of Tanzania which is often referred to as “The Big 5”: African Buffalo, Lion, Leopard, Black Rhino, and Bush Elephant. The term was coined in the late 1800s by big game hunters for the five animals most difficult (and dangerous) to hunt on foot. These animals are now protected and now reside largely in national parks, but the term is still widely used by safari and tour operators. Seeing this variety of mega-fauna in the wild was INCREDIBLE! In addition to the big 5, I also saw Giraffes, Zebras, Wildebeests, Warthogs, Jackals, Hippopotamus, Gazelles, Impalas, Tortoise, Hyenas (another one of god’s aesthetic jokes). Monitor Lizards, Baboons, many different varieties of monkeys and an innumerous amount of beautiful birds. Many of these large beautiful species such as Zebra, Elephant, Lion and Giraffe I have seen in zoos behind fences. In the Tanzanian bush, on the outskirts of the Serengeti, they were completely in the wild. Seeing these animals free and unadulterated brought me an incredible sense of peace.
The Hippopotamus in the wild was my favorite. They’re a combination of adorable and confusing! They look like aquatic bean bag chairs with dysfunctional small legs. I like to imagine that at some point in evolution and liturgical folklore, the hippopotamus lost a bet (perhaps with the duckbilled platypus or Hyena) and the ruthless bookies of divinity punished them, resulting as one of the most handsome, but poorly designed mammals. Oh, and I was informed by my safari tour guide that they are the DEADLIEST animal in Africa. THE DEADLIEST! The HIPPOPOTAMUS!? Yup, allegedly more fatalities have resulted from the winsome hippopotamus than the lion, leopard, black mamba, cobra snake, great white shark or crocodile. By the third day of my safari, I had seen A LOT of animals including 12 lions. Some of the lions close enough that if they would have been hungry, or even just curious, could have climbed right up and jumped in our jeep. We stopped for lunch on the banks of a “hippopotamus pond” and I asked my tour guide, “Are we really stopping for lunch on the banks of a body of water harboring the deadliest killer in Africa?”.
He replied, “Yeah, but you’ll probably be fine.”
I was forced to checked the fine print in my traveler’s insurance, and it did NOT look like I was covered if slaughtered by a wild animal I choose to eat a sandwich near. Also, life insurance does not pay double for this type of shenanigan.
The safari I did lasted 3 days which involved visiting 3 different national parks: Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara. Each location had something unique to offer. Tarangire was known for an abundance of wild elephants, many of which came astonishingly close to our safari Jeep. Ngorongoro was located in the crater of an inactive volcano and I found myself surrounded on all sides by nearly all of the diverse and exciting animals one comes to Africa to experience. In Ngorongoro National Park I even got a far-off glimpse of the elusive Black Rhino, one of 27,000 still left in the wild. Lake Manyara is more jungle-y and is situated on the banks of a large beautiful lake. Manyara is known for tree climbing lions, which we got to see. A lion in a tree…you don’t see that everyday.
Beautiful things in cages and reflections on my own claustrophobia:
I am not referring to claustrophobia here in the conventional definition, “extreme fear of small spaces”. I could happily take a nap in a vampire coffin and find it a cozy and relaxing experience. However, freedom is one of my highest values in life and I’ve learned that I can’t even wear closed-toe shoes or sleep indoors at times without feeling a bit caged. (Many who know me are aware that when I pass through Milwaukee I usually sleep in a tent in my parent’s backyard). The more domestic I am forced to be, the more anxious I become. The more my “wildness” is taken away, the more I begin to wither and die like a neglected house plant. You can put me in a wide-open gymnasium, but if it is lacking windows and natural sunlight, I will find myself becoming symptomatic. I experience the proverbial “cabin fever” in air-conditioned building during the middle of summer as I do from a closed-up house in the dead of winter.
Seeing all of the big beautiful animals free to roam in the wildness of Tanzania, gave me a profound sense of peace. I understand that many zoo animals are born in captivity and many are perfectly happy. I also understand that zoos can serve a very important educational function. I, personally, have a hard time observing beautiful things in cages and aquariums without feeling sick and slightly panicky.
If you are curious about other cultures and you are willing to respect people’s health and safety, GO TRAVEL!
At one point on my Kilimanjaro climb, my guide Thomas and I were at a high overlook observing the path we had just ascended. We could see the bright colors of jackets and hats from the climbers off in the distance. Thomas and he said, “This used to look like a traffic jam. People from the gate to the summit were walking in a single file line. When you stopped to set up camp, there would be three hundred tents around you. You could hardly move. Now, hardly anyone is here”.
I felt lucky to have climbed Kilimanjaro when I did; I shared the views with very few other people. On the flip side my heart hurt for all of the guides and porters who were deeply affected by the pandemic and out of work. Like many industries that collapsed as a result of the pandemic, they never saw it coming.
The sad reality is that the majority of people I referenced earlier who flocked to me in the streets of Moshi were out-of-work tour guides and porters. Before the pandemic many people in and around Moshi were employed in some aspect of tourism. Most worked jobs related to safaris tours or Mount Kilimanjaro. Working as a guide or porter was considered a good job that paid reasonably (and usually included tips!). When the pandemic hit, many people in Tanzania, but specifically in Moshi, were devastated. Their stream of income completely dried up and they had nothing to fall back on. This is why the good people in the streets of Moshi were so desperate for my attention.
Something that is often overlooked and misunderstood by people in first world countries is how many people’s lives were completely CRUSHED by the pandemic. I am not just referring to major airlines and hotel chains. I am referring to the workers in developing countries who don’t have unemployment benefits or stimulus packages to fall back on. Millions of people had their lives turned upside down and were forced to return to abusive households, unsavory jobs, illicit activities or became homeless as a result. The folks I am referring to are tour guides, Sherpas, bartenders, taxi drivers, sex workers, tour operators, waitresses, drug dealers, jewelers, surf instructors, yoga teachers, boat captains, massage therapists, and café and gallery owners. This list is by no means complete, but I hope you get the idea.
Responsible Travel During a Pandemic:
The World Health Organization, Center For Disease Control and Transportation Authority of American all unanimously agree that the spread of Covid-19 can be completely prevented by wearing a mask, washing your hands and keeping a safe distance from others. The same hygienic and respectful behavior you implement when going to the bank or the grocery store can be done/performed in an airport, hotel, train station or museum.
-Wear a mask.
-Wash your hands frequently.
-Social Distance.
-Sleep one person to a room.
-Respect people’s personal space.
-Respect people’s health.
-Take care of your own immune system and physical health!!
-Don’t be an asshole!
If you are a curious person who enjoys travel and learning about different cultures, and is willing to make a conscious effort to respect other’s health and safety: GO TRAVEL and spend your money consciously.
A note about responsible travel in general:
Responsible travel, in my opinion, means minimal strain on the environment and local communities. In fact, I believe that when we travel we have the potential to leave a place even better than we found it.
-Support local enterprises.
-Buy artwork and souvenirs directly from those who make it.
-Choose tour operators who treat local communities as equal partners and that are committed to protecting the environment.
-For cultural attractions, try to pay fees directly to the locals involved, rather than to tour company guides or middlemen.
-Don’t by items made from protected species. Depending on where you are this may include ivory, skin, fur, bone or shells.
-Conserve natural resources.
-Respect local culture and customs.
**Something I find particularly important: When visiting another country, I encourage any traveler to be sensitive to the comfort level of the locals and indigenous, especially regarding taking photos. It’s important to ask before you aim your camera and NEVER take photos of children without the permission of their parents. If you see someone interesting and exotic looking and you want to snap a photo, remember that they are a human being and not a wild animal. Ask permission! You may be the 35th gringo that day to have the wild idea to take a photo of them for your Instagram post.